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Crochet Stitches Guide: Every Basic and Special Stitch, Step by Step
Eleven stitches, worked through in order from the simplest to the most textured — the core stitches, the shaping stitches, and the special stitches worth learning once the basics feel automatic.
What you'll need
- Any worsted weight yarn — this is a technique guide, not a specific project
- A 4.0–5.0mm crochet hook
- Scissors
Abbreviations used
Chain (ch)
Yarn over, then pull that loop through the loop already on your hook. Repeat to build a foundation chain — the starting point for almost every project on this site.
Slip stitch (sl st)
Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, then pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. Adds no height — used to join rounds or move across stitches invisibly.
Single crochet (sc)
Insert your hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops now on your hook), yarn over again, then pull through both loops. The shortest, densest stitch, and the backbone of amigurumi.
Basic stitchHalf double crochet (hdc)
Yarn over before inserting your hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), then yarn over once more and pull through all three loops at the same time.
Basic stitchDouble crochet (dc)
Yarn over, insert your hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), then yarn over and pull through two loops at a time — twice in total. This is the main stitch used in the granny square tutorial.
Basic stitchTreble crochet (tr)
Yarn over twice before inserting your hook, then pull through two loops at a time, three times in total. Creates tall, open, lacy fabric.
Increase (inc)
Work two full stitches into the same stitch instead of one. This is how amigurumi balls grow rounder with every round — see it in action in the crochet flower and granny square tutorials.
Shaping stitchInvisible decrease
Insert your hook through the front loops only of two consecutive stitches, then complete a single crochet through both at once. This is the standard way amigurumi heads and bodies taper closed.
Shaping stitchFront loop only (FLO)
Work your next stitch through only the front of the two loops sitting on top of a stitch, leaving the back loop free. Creates a subtle horizontal ridge, often used just before changing stitch direction.
Popcorn stitch
Work 4–5 double crochet into the same stitch, slip your hook out of the working loop, insert it into the top of the first of those stitches, then pull the working loop through. This pops the whole cluster forward into a raised bobble.
Alpine stitch
Work front-post double crochet around stitches from two rows below instead of into the row directly beneath you. Repeated across a row, this builds a woven, nubbly texture popular for cozy blankets and scarves.
Tip Don't try to learn every stitch at once. Master chain, slip stitch, and single crochet first — you can make an entire amigurumi with just those three plus the increase and decrease above.
Frequently asked questions
What's the easiest stitch to learn first?
Single crochet. It's the shortest stitch, the most forgiving of uneven tension, and the one used in almost every amigurumi pattern on this site — including the crochet flower and granny square tutorials.
How many stitches does a beginner actually need to know?
Realistically, five: chain, slip stitch, single crochet, increase, and invisible decrease. That combination alone can make most simple amigurumi. Double crochet unlocks granny squares and blankets on top of that.
What's the difference between UK and US stitch names?
The stitches are the same, but the names shift by one: a US single crochet is a UK double crochet, a US double crochet is a UK treble, and so on. Every pattern on this site uses US terms.
Do I need to learn textured stitches like popcorn or alpine right away?
No — they're worth learning once the core stitches feel automatic, but they're not required for beginner patterns like the ones in this Learn to Crochet section.